La Gomera

Moorglade's Voyage
Ted Wilson
Fri 5 Nov 2010 22:56
Our position is 28:40.71N 17:46.02W
Friday 5 November 2010
We had a most enjoyable time at San Sebastian de La Gomera.
Tuesday morning brought a telephone call from Steve, securely tied up in
Puerto Colon, where he had been taken by the Spanish lifeboat. We were very
pleased to hear they were all safe and didn't seem to be any the worse for
their experiences. We had felt bad that we weren't able to offer more help in
their hour of need. We hope Quest's engine will soon be fixed, without too much
expense.
Ted was then able to go to formally check in at the marina office. As
Monday was an official holiday there was quiet a back log of people trying to
check in so he was gone for what seemed like most of the morning. I was on
the verge of sending out a search party when he returned and Anne, the
friendly, English speaking German on the next boat, was able to show us the
information she had about the island. Later we explored the main part of
the town - this didn't take that long - and identified the ferretria that could
provide more gas, and the bus station and market, as well as taking advantage of
the new wifi aerial to catch up with some work.
On Wednesday we spurned the bus in favour of a hire car, with a special
sailors discount for a tour round the Northern part of the island and a
trip to Valle de Rey on the West coast. Ted was very impressed by the
engineering of the roads, which twisted and turned through some really
spectacular but inhospitable, rocky landscapes. There were some amazing views
and also some which would have been amazing if we hadn't been in the clouds.
There were lots of viewing places to stop and apart from one, which
had several buses in it, there weren't many other people around. The forest
in the Garojonay National Park was incredibly dense and a bit spooky. When we
finally located the Visitor Centre we were able to acquire much knowledge about
volcanoes as well as seeing a display of burial customs and typical Gomeran home
life. There was a lot of emphasis on the importance of maintaining the
ecological balance and the symbiotic relationship between man and the
environment. In the evening we took advantage of having the car to go up to the
Parador on the top of the cliffs above the marina for a typical Canarian meal -
very tasty (and also very filling)
As we then decided that we needed to leave for our next destination very
early in the morning and we had to return the car on Thursday morning, our
departure was delayed for a further day. This enabled Ted to catch up on some
boat jobs while I did some much needed washing in our newly purchased bowl
(which can also double as a baby bath).
And so to today, Friday, when we were indeed up in the darkness to set off
for La Palma at first light. Amazingly we had wind from the South East and tidal
help for the first part of the journey along the North coast of La Gomera. We
made a slight detour from the optimum course to view Los Organos, which can only
be seen from the sea. These are some basalt rocks which have been left when all
the surrounding rocks have been eroded and the resemble organ pipes. The guide
books make much of them but we found them a bit of a let down. The rest of the
trip was mainly spent motoring into a NWly until about 9 Nm from Santa Cruz
de La Palma when the wind freed sufficiently to allow a 6-7 knot close
reach up to the harbour entrance. The pilot book update advised us that we were
not allowed to enter the harbour until given permission by the Harbour
Control, but they ignored our radio calls so we went in anyway. The pilot also
warned about swell in the marina, and there is no doubt that it is not the most
restful place we have been, in spite of using all the warps and the rubber
snubbers. It remains to be seen how well we sleep. The marina is anything but
full and everyone has a full space to themselves, enabling warps to be led to
both finger pontoons. The Fred Olsen ferries have just taken over the harbour.
One of them almost seems to be in the marina with us!
Tomorrow we will explore La Palma by car.
KLW
![]() ![]() ![]() Up in the
mountains Laurisilver
forest. The species only survive Valle Gran
Rey's spectacular road
in the Canaries
![]() ![]() Puerto
Vueltas The
harbour at San Sebastian taken from the Parador
Moorglade
is on the left two boats away from the lifeboat.
![]() ![]() Early morning sun on the East
coast Los
Organos |