Buzzing Mumbai

Jackamy
Paul & Derry Harper
Fri 11 Feb 2011 18:04
 
Friday 11th February
 
We weren't quite sure what to expect of Mumbai, having only had a few days getting used to the idea of coming here we didn't really know much about the place. But with an entrance like the Gateway of India you can't help but be impressed. As we scrambled out of the dinghy just below this bold basalt arch masses of people leant over the wall to have a look. The place was a hive of activity and the atmosphere was great. Derived from the Islamic styles of 16th century Gujarat, it was built to commemorate the 1911 royal visit of King George V. It was completed in 1924. Ironically, the gateway's British architects used it just 24 hours later to parade their last British regiment as India marched towards independence. Apparently, these days the gateway is a favourite gathering spot for locals and a top spot for people watching.
 
Sometimes you can tell within hours of arriving in a place whether you are going to like it or not, and we knew within minutes of being ashore that we were going to enjoy a few days here. It's as chaotic as any other city but the difference is that whilst you are dodging the traffic and risking your life, instead of feeling scared and panicking you're laughing. The atmosphere is great, the city feels alive and we're just going with the flow. There are horse drawn gilded carriages that ply their trade on the stretch of road by the dinghy dock and although slightly bizarre, they seem to fit in with the hundreds of black and yellow taxi's that are zipping all over the place.
 
As I say we really didn't know much about Mumbai before we arrived, we expected a busy city but we certainly didn't imagine it would have the stately and fantastic architecture that is so prominent here, the whole place is full of history and you can feel it oozing out of the streets.
 
Just a short walk around the corner from the dinghy dock is the colonial Royal Bombay Yacht Club, where we had arranged to have a drink with the group of yachts that we have sailed in such close formation with along the coast. Sometimes things don't go to plan and the slight issue of membership stood in our way. Instead we chose to go to the sumptuous Taj Mahal Palace. The hotel is a fairytale blend of Islamic and Renaissance styles jostling for prime position among Mumbai's famous landmarks. Facing the harbour, it was built in 1903 by the Parsi industrialist JN Tata, supposedly after he was refused entry to one of the European hotels on account of being 'a native'. It is also the hotel that was bombed by terrorists in 2008 and you may remember images of the hotel with flames gushing out of the windows.
 
  
 
Gateway of India.................The locals looking over
 
  
 
Horse-drawn carriages...........Local taxi
 
  
 
Royal Bombay Yacht Club
 
 
Our view from the hotel bar
 
The buzz of Mumbai drew us out of the hotel and onto the streets in search of a restaurant. Colaba is a bustling district packed with street stalls, markets and bars with the Colaba Causeway dissecting the promontory and the jumble of side streets. It was difficult to walk along the pavement as stalls line both sides and as the stall holders were trying to make a sale to the customers walking by it was crazy. By chance we ended up in Leopold's Cafe and Bar - our stay here wouldn't have been the same without this place. It has been around since 1871, with it's wobbly ceiling fans, open-plan seating with tables crammed close together and incredible atmosphere, the place is a winner, I should think it'll be around for another 100+ years. Most travelers seem to end up either in the restaurant downstairs or the bar upstairs to swap tales with random strangers. We had to talk quite loud to be heard but with a great waiter and superb food we had a fantastic evening.
 
 
Leopold's Cafe and Bar
 
  
 
Dinner with the group