Exploring Nuka Hiva
Jackamy
Paul & Derry Harper
Wed 14 Apr 2010 03:27
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The champagne was soon opened after
arriving at lunchtime on Sunday and we all took a moment to relax after our 3040
mile trip. It wasn't long before Blue Magic radioed Miss Tippy and ourselves and
invited us all over to celebrate, and of course we accepted, it'd be rude not
to! Whilst on board Blue Magic Bionic arrived with Sheila on board which caused
a lot of excitement as she had been separated from Brian and the kids for almost
2 weeks! They then joined us to celebrate a little bit more and before we knew
it it was 5.30 and we had 15 minutes to get ready as we were booked in to the
Pearl Lodge for a welcome meal. The Pearl Lodge is Nuka Hiva's swankiest
hotel/restaurant which comprises 20 bungalows overlooking the western edge of
Taiohae Bay. A lady called Rose Corser built the hotel and has been friends with
the BWR for many years, I believe since the very first rally. The whole place
was lovely and very relaxing. In fact it was so relaxing that the Miss Tippy
kids were soon frolicking in the pool fully clothed!
   On Monday we were up bright and early
to check in at the Gendarmerie. Once the lengthy process was complete we were
free to wonder around and discover for ourselves just how remote this island is.
The islands are over 4000 miles from the nearest mainland, there are no
overflying air corridors, no shipping routes and very little commercial or
fishing traffic so really it wasn't a surprise that the facilities and resources
are minimal. However, the supermarket does sell Dairy Milk
chocolate!
Amy and Paul then spent the afternoon
cleaning the hull. We'd developed a garden of goose barnacles on all the
splashed areas of the hull during the passage from the Galapagos so they had to
be cleaned off from the dinghy using a CD case. The reason for the job being
done from the dinghy is because there are sharks, tiger and hammerheads, in the
bay. Because there is no protective reef and the bay is very deep the sharks are
attracted by the yachts - great, no swimming for us!
On Monday night we were booked in at
the Pearl Lodge again for a 'welcome party'. We were told to expect a proper
Tahitian ceremony but that's not quite what we got although it was pleasant. One
of the waitresses sang a brief song in Tahitian or Marquesan, I'm not sure
which, and then we were all presented with 'Lays'. Our lays were palm leaf
garlands but we were expecting flowers. After a couple of drinks we then
ventured down to the pizza restaurant where we were served by a 'Mahu' or
'Raerae'. We had been pre-warned about these and told not to be shocked or rude
as it is completely acceptable and normal within the Polynesian culture. Mahu
are males who are raised as girls and continue to live their lives as women and
they were present when the first Europeans arrived at the islands. They aren't
necessarily gay and some even have wives and families and no one is quite sure
as to why this practice was first started. Although there are many theories the
most believable and sensible reason dates back to when human sacrifices used to
be made in the religious ceremonies. It was always men who were sacrificed,
never women, the women weren't even allowed near to the platform where the
ceremony took place. So it is thought that at least one male would be brought up
as a female and taught to cook, sew, clean etc so that at least one male in the
family would never be sacrificed thus he could then continue the family
name.
   Another day in
paradise!
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