Bonaire part 2 - road trips and more.

Innamorata
Steve & Carol
Thu 9 Aug 2018 17:24
We have both been doing a few boat jobs since arriving – I eventually
managed to get the dinghy chaps finished and on the dinghy, not perfect but I
was reasonably happy with how they turned out, have also made a few other shades
etc to keep the sun out. I gave Sanne a sewing lesson – they needed a new
zipper in their sail cover and she had never used a machine before, she is a
fast learner and sewed the new zip all by herself after some instruction as well
as re-sewing most of the seams.
We were lucky enough to be invited to spend a day out with Sara and Joan
(our friends from yacht Tangeroa) who had hired a pickup truck we met them near
one of the docks and loaded the back with dive gear before setting off to the
Washington Slagbaai National park in the north of the island, there is a $25
entrance fee to the park, as we had already purchased Marine Park tags to enable
us to dive in Bonaire Marine park the entrance is free. The park covers the
north of the island, it was set up in 1969 and comprises of 14,000 acres of land
from 2 former plantations. You need a pickup or a jeep as the roads are bumpy
tracks which would soon destroy the suspension of a normal car.
The island is quite barren with cactus plants growing in abundance – it’s
like something from an old cowboy movie, when it was a plantation it produced
goat meat, salt, wood and charcoal for export, Bonaire was never fertile enough
to grow sugar, cocoa, coffee and spices like the plantations of the windward
islands.
There are 2 routes in the park – we drove around the long route stopping on
the way a few times. The park is home to many birds and reptiles including
-parrots, parakeets, flamingos and iguanas. Everywhere you stop there are
lizards and iguanas, they especially like to hang out at the dive sites in the
hope of getting the odd scrap of food, you have to be careful before you drive
off as they like to shelter under the vehicles.
The Malmok lighthouse ruin stands on the most northern tip of the island,
it was built in the 19th century but never lit! The coast is rugged, there are
massive boulders said to have been randomly deposited on the land by
tsunamis.
We did a dive at Wayaka – (dive pictures are on last blog) and then headed
on to Slachbaai bay which used to be one of Bonaires two main ports. we stopped
to eat our sandwiches, we could see Flamingos in the distance – you aren't
allowed too close and most of the pictures I took were blurred!
We had another road trip – this time with our friends Rik and Sanne from
Incentive, this time we headed south – first stop a shop to buy some carrots and
apples then on to the donkey sanctuary – donkeys were introduced to the island
by the Spaniards in the 1600’s to provide hard labour on the salt flats, once
they were made superfluous by modern transport they were released into the wild,
however the donkeys didn't do well, many died from starvation, dehydration,
illness or fell victim to human abuse and road traffic accidents, as there has
not ever been any new stock since the 1600’s there are also problems from
interbreeding including jaw deformities and mental issues. in 1993 2 Dutch
nationals began a donkey sanctuary, they took in donkeys that were in need of
help providing food water and medical care, once at the sanctuary the donkeys
are not released back into the wild they are left to live out their days in the
big sanctuary park. When we arrived we didn't really know what to expect we were
met by a lady who works there who explained that there are about 700 donkeys at
the sanctuary and that they take in about 5 more every week mainly from traffic
accidents, all males are castrated to prevent further increase in the numbers –
there are wild stallions still – about 200 of the wild males have been castrated
but some left to ensure the population doesn't become extinct, just reduced to a
manageable number, we were explained about how to drive around the enclosure and
what to expect. We paid the $8 entry fee and first went to the area they call
the Intensive care area – here new arrivals, pregnant and new mums, ill or
damaged donkeys are kept until they are able to join the others.
Here we also encountered Micky – he was abused by men before he come to the
sanctuary and has a great dislike for them – kicked Steve as well as chased Rik,
(his wounds were from a fall he had in the sanctuary) Sanne has a great video of
this rather grumpy fellow.
Next we got in the car to drive around the large enclosure where most of
the 700 donkeys live, we were warned not to stop and feed the donkeys near the
entrance as they mob you and make it very hard for other vehicles to get in!
This truck hadn't got very far!
Immediately we were surrounded by donkeys – they surround the car and press
their noses to the windows, if you open a window you get as many donkey heads
into the car as they can fit – they are all Soooooooooo sweet and gentle
although they vie with each other for a good position, as we move on slowly they
trot next to the car – noses pressed as close as that can get – it’s highly
amusing and we had a great laugh
The area is barren like most of the island, there are lots of shelters like
this one donated by the UK donkey Sanctuary and there are hay troughs scattered
around. Every morning all the donkeys go to a feeding area, if a donkey fails to
go it is investigated to ensure that its not ill or injured.
Steve and Rik stayed in the car while Sanne and myself got out to feed and
pet the donkeys
Enough but not all the donkey were interested in us.
There is a lookout tower you can climb to view the whole area.
All in all a great experience – even the boys enjoyed themselves and the
donkeys were sad to see us leave!
Next we headed towards the Salt flats, they vary in colour but are
predominantly pink,
Salt loading dock, no ship today.
Next stop – slave huts – yes these really were built to house slaves – up
to 6 slaves slept in these tiny boxes – originally they had thatched roofs, they
have been restored minus the thatch, it’s appalling to think that it was
considered OK to treat people is this way!
From there we headed along the coast road and found our fist flamingo of
the day and made a few stops along the East coast which is covered with
driftwood and rubbish – people have made monuments all along the road.
After getting depressed about the rubbish it was time for a late lunch stop
at Lac bay, a shallow bay popular for the wind surfing before carrying on and
heading back to the boats.
The next day we set off again this time we headed north along the west
coast, great views, geology and road signs!
We stopped at 1000 steps dive site – in reality it only something like 68
steps but if you dive here it feels like 1000 steps when you carry your gear
back up after the dive, its a pretty little beach though.
Continuing north we got to Lake Gotomeer –by far the prettiest part of the
island with its pink flamingos and scenery.
Cactus is used to make fences like the one below – these are seen all over
the island, cactus being the prolific plant on the island
Some of the wild donkeys we spotted during our travels
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