North West Passage

CATRYN
David Rice
Tue 19 Aug 2014 20:22
After four nights of waiting for the ice to melt at Graham Harbour we
lifted the hook and set sail for Gascoyne Inlet forty miles to the west. All is
well on board our good ship and the topic of the day was the consumption of
biscuits and where they are all going?!! As you can imagine five healthy adults
with good appetites with nothing much to do other than pass the time waiting for
the blinking ice to melt can be a formidable challenge. Biscuits ashore at
Arctic Bay and Pond Inlet dithered between $8-10 Canadian and a Mars Bar was $4
around Canadian and they get snapped up quiet suddenly around here especially
when the Rice brothers are sharing the same watch in the middle of the night!
After a two hour long meeting today with all present we decided that Cath and I
will bake cookies every other day or so a much cheaper option since we have
plenty of ingredients on board. Cath is our main baker and has been all along
baking breads, flapjacks, cakes and yesterday pancakes for lunch!
Our Chief Steward Philip will arrange to divide the offerings into five
plastic containers labelled with crew member names. We can all then decide
all when we want to chomp away! Captain Dai produced a tasty seafood
paella that was enjoyed by all and Chief Steward Phill produced a bar of
chocalate to go with the 12th cup of tea of the day, nice move Phil, he is the
only one that really knows how many bars are left and he has hid them well
somewhere on board!
Our radio man Pete was able to contact a French sailing vessel tonight also
trying to sail the North West Passage to discuss ice conditions from their
updated ice reports in French! The only bit I understood was merci
beacoup!
Its all good nd al in all we have had a good dayon board.
Birds sighted today were Thick Billed Murres ,Long Tailed Jaegers, Arctic
Skuas, Northern Fulmars, Black Guillemots and are beloved Northern Fulmars who
keep watch over us always flying around us in a very friendly way.
Last night on my anchor watch between 2-4 a.m. here at Gascoyne Inlet 74.39
North and 91.17 West North just four miles east ot of Beechy Island there was a
salmon pink, grey sky, and the wind from the east at around fiftenn knots
and a bit of a lumpy sea. We endure the sweet melodious sounds of snoring all
around and making sure the anchor does not drag when on anchor watch! The
hillsides around this large bay are more rounded than anything we have seen this
far north. A few abrupt steep cliffs interrupt the lonely, majestic landscape
where many thousand Northern Fulmars are nesting. We were hoping to visit Beechy
Island this morning but due to the wind and sea conditions we are staying
snugged up aboard Catryn. Hopefully tomorrow morning when the winds abate we
will sail the four miles west to Erebus and Terror Bay where the Franklin
expedition wintered over in 1845, a mere hundred and sixty nine years ago! There
are five graves ashore one is unmarked, one is Thomas Morgan of HMS
Investigator, William Braine, John Hartnell and John Harrington who were crew
members aboard the Franklin expedition. The graves were all exhumed in
1981 and the bodies were found to be preserved by the permafrost. (From Farley
Mowatts book Ordeal by Ice). Today it is thought that the lead from the plumbing
on board both ships contributed to the deaths of the whole crew and not so much
of lead the soldering of the cans of food. I believe that conclusion has been
based on the level of lead that was present in the found bodies.
There are a few memorials dedicated to the Franklin expedition that
includes a wooden cenotaph that is badly scarred by the claws of Polar Bears and
scattered rusted out barrel staves and tin cans and odd bits of coal hanging
around. There are replica boards on the gravesites to identify the inhabitants
and the original ones are in the Prince of Wales Museum in Yellowknife.
Bitterly cold here this afternoon and it snowed this morning,
Pnawn da (good afternoon) to you all.
Hywel.
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