First climb, first ascent

66:15.02N 35:50.63W
Sangmilik Fjord: Monday 21 July
David, Nigel and Al were dropped ashore just under the glacier at about 0930 and having ensured that wellies, life jackets etc were well above the high tide mark (memories of “wellygate” in 2022!) and with rifle fully loaded we set off up the moraine to reach the ridge that led up to our summit (thought to be at around 600 metres). It was classic Greenland terrain with boulder fields, mud and intermittent clean rock which was beautifully non-slip even when it appeared a bit damp. There was no wind and it was reasonably warm so that we were soon down to base layers or thin fleece as Nigel set a cracking pace doggedly followed by Dave and Al. The route finding was pretty complex but we did not have to reverse too often and we zig-zagged upwards, keeping up just to the right of the glacier. Eventually at about 400 metres we emerged onto very reasonable rock and progress altered from a Type 2 to Type 1 fun.*
Views became more dramatic as we climbed higher and for much of the time, we were line of sight with Umiak. Our handheld VHF enabled good comms so we were able to check that the boat party had not gone back to bed!
No altitude problems here so we made reasonably rapid headway and reached the summit at about 1330 (measured at around 600 metres). It was still reasonably warm and calm so it was a pleasant place to be and thankfully there no signs of previous human visitation so we felt that we could justifiably claim it as a first ascent. After a snack and a drink and more summit phots, we started the descent and were very mindful that any tumble or other mishap could have unpleasant consequences. In spite of that, I think we all tripped or stumbled at one point but thankfully with no serious effects and we agreed that much of the descent probably fell into the category of Type 2 fun – fatiguing just because of the level of concentration required to navigate the easiest route and to avoid falling. Nigel had recorded our outgoing track and that was really useful to guide the descent.
By 1630 we were back at (intact) wellies and life jackets and Mike came to pick us up and speed us back to Umiak to a toasty saloon with the stove lit and supper prepared. We all agreed – a good day out!
Al

*for the uninitiated, Type 1 fun means something that is brilliant at the time pf participation, whereas Type 2 fun means something that you may not actually be enjoying contemporaneously (either because it is scary or just hard work) but once you are back in comfort and safety becomes the most brilliant thing you have ever done! The definition of Type 3 fun remains contentious!