15:34.181S 146:24.344W - Fabulous Fakarava
Irene IV - World Adventure
Louis Goor
Tue 19 Apr 2022 05:26
with its glassy tranquil waters in the central lagoon. At anchor we were
able to dine aboard on China plates again and never worry about toppling
glasses losing any precious wine! The crystal-clear waters invite swimming
and offer a transparent window into underwater life. Fakarava, along with 3
neighbouring atolls, form part of a rich and thriving ecosystem, which not
surprisingly, has been designated a UNESCO biosphere reserve. In all the
8,000 or so miles that we have travelled since leaving Kinsale in October
2021, we have not been in such a pristine spot. There is no rubbish
anywhere, waste disposal is cleverly taken care of, in a typically French,
visually attractive manner. Mothers are seen to reprimand children when
rubbish is thrown on the ground. Apparently, the local Mayor, is an
environmental activist, who acts on his beliefs and has brought the
community along with him. The pride of place is palpable.
We entered the Fakarava lagoon via the north pass, which is wide and easy to
traverse. However, it is at the south end of the atoll that the diving and
snorkelling are sublime. Here the concentration of shark, due to the
prevalence of their favourite food, grouper, is astounding. We engaged the
services of the dive company, Kaina Plongée and along with the crews of Juno
and Intrepid, under the guidance of locals, Vincent, Marc and Matahiti, set
out on an adventure not soon to be forgotten.
Enda and I elected to snorkel rather than dive, and we were treated to a
banquet of colours, textures and shapes. The visibility was absolute, we
could see for miles. Looking into the distance across acres of coral reef,
very close to the surface, with fish of every hue, design, and dimension,
was like watching cows and sheep grazing on pastures back in Ireland. The
coral is abundant, and vigorous, rarely washed out or bleached, the fish
profuse, enjoying the lavish feast laid out before them. It was heaven
itself, in Neptune’s rich garden.
Anecdotally regarded as one of the top 10 dive sites in the world, Louis,
Rob and Nick were keen to explore further beneath the waves. After dredging
up their rusty SCUBA knowledge, they took part in a couple of descents into
this UNESCO protected Biosphere habitat. The dives focused on Fakarava’s
southern passage where the sharks congregate in walls several hundred strong
appearing to be largely motionless as they wait for darkness to start
feeding again. This venue, featured in numerous wildlife documentaries, did
not disappoint. The sight of literally hundreds of Grey Reef Shark, Black
Tip Shark, White Tip Shark, Nurse Shark and Lemon Shark was breath-taking
and confirmed the wider good health of this extraordinary atoll. Beyond the
sharks, the abundance of coral types clearly provided the foundations for a
divergent and abundant ecosystem. All reef creatures great and small seemed
to be represented here from tiny relatives of the sea horse to the giant
Napoleon Wrasse. Even amongst the veteran divers, this was regarded as the
best dive anyone had ever experienced. The warm sea temperatures, crystal
clear waters and sheer richness of life will be hard to replicate anywhere
else on the planet.
Rob, previously terrified of sharks of any breed or size, has been
converted! The dive, described above by Nick, has transformed him into a
veritable shark whisperer. After a dinner of butterflied lamb on a
subsequent evening, Rob was seen to hang the lamb bone over the transom, so
as to give his newfound friends a treat in thanks for their magnificence.
The perfect day ended with sundowners and a rousing rendition of “Happy
Birthday” on the idyllic beach at Havaiki Lodge to celebrate Judy’s (from
Intrepid) 60th birthday.