We are definitely getting into the swing of Caribbean cruising.  Since our last report we have been as far north as Bequia via all the major islands (seems a funny word for islands often no more than 7 sq. miles in size).  These include: Carriacou, Union Island, Mayreau, Canouan and Mustique and on each of these we have revisited our favourite bays and hostelries. 

On Union Island, as previously reported, we favour Chatham Bay, with Ballhead’s beach bar and restaurant offering probably the most relaxed limin’ in the Caribbean.  Entertainment is provided by Alvin, a larger than life local, who knows far too much about the inner workings of the British military for him to be anything other than an ex-para or, as he puts it “British SAS mon!  At the other end of the beach is the remarkable and ambitious Aqua hotel, as yet only a bar and a restaurant with an infinity pool right on the beach – bizarre or simply Italian, hard to say but we wish them well with their project.

On Mayreau, although Saltwhistle Bay is spectacularly beautiful, offering lagoon swimming and open water swimming off the different sides of the same beach, it is often crowded and difficult to anchor in.  Saline Bay just round the headland is wide open and has the advantage of Dennis’ Hideaway only a short uphill walk away.  Dennis offers a spectacular Lobster Salad or BBQ Ribs or both, with the added bonus of Dennis’ skill as a raconteur extraordinaire providing entertainment in the bar after dinner.

Mustique, of course, is a very different experience.  There is nothing like it in the Caribbean and can perhaps only be compared with The Bishop’s Avenue, London, St George’s Hill, Weybridge or the Wentworth Estate.  With the exception of Basil’s Bar on the waterfront, which has an international reputation as a “must eat Basil’s cheeseburger, after all Mick Jagger does”, there are two boutiques selling haute couture, rhinestone encrusted T-shirts etc.  Both shops are as pretty as a picture.  The pink one sells pastel shades and the blue one primary colours.  Kate Moss was in Basil’s when we visited, accompanied by a number of bags from Pink and Blue!  The Firefly Bar and Restaurant, easily reached by calling them up on Ch. 68 and being chauffeured up the hill in a smart car, has arguably the most beautiful panoramic view of a sunset ever imagined.  Settling down into the N African-themed interior and sinking into lush velvets with low carved dark-wood tables, taking in the heavily incense-laden air, you can imagine celebs. being quite at home.  However none to be seen unless the three pretentious couples at the bar are as well-known and as important as they think they are, fresh from the Mustique Tennis Club after an “exhausting game of doubles with Tommy Hilfiger, darling” and discussing whether to do “both Cheltenham and Ascot this year” or perhaps Dubai!

Now on Carriacou again, anchored in Hillsborough Bay, en-route south for Grenada to drop Peter and Linda off, it is pouring with rain and blowing a houllie.  I guess the out of season hurricane further north and the Haiti earthquake might have something to do with the dramatic change in the weather.  Full waterproofs later me thinks but for now bacon butties and fresh coffee tucked up in the saloon.

Bequia is as far north as we ventured with Pete and Linda.  Bequia is sort of Oboe’s home in the Caribbean, so Ryan and I were in our element guiding P & L to Frangipani Bar for a sun downer and our favourite French restaurant for steak frites the evening we arrived; then the Rasta fruit and veg market and Gingerbread for morning coffee with the “second homers” the following morning. – “Good morning John, good morning Wendy, how are you?”  “Fine, Nigel, fine.  Hello Ryan.  Crime rate is down.  They caught 3 of them last week and recovered some of the booty.  Locked them up but only for 3 days apparently as they were local families.  If they’d come over from St Vincent, they would still be in gaol!  Back home to St Mawes next week. Don’t really want to go but needs must.  Perhaps we’ll see you and Oboe down our way this summer.”

Into “Power Ranger” our intrepid rubber dinghy – now sporting a hole somewhere hidden and letting in water and back to Oboe for a downhill sail with big red spinnaker proudly flying saying to all “Look at us, we are real sailors!”  (Tee Hee!)

Nigel