3. Hmmm, a very late start, short ride to Ust Bolshersk, and another Salmon, eye opener....
"Kamchatka Peninsula" by Bike and Kayak
Sat 18 Aug 2012 23:23
Well after the night before, it was always going to be a difficult start to this day, and in hindsight that is an understatement!
A foggy morning outside, all my wet gear just lying on the grass, the reality of my written off camera, confirmed by its total lack of response even with a new battery, made for a challenging start. To make matters worse, a group of 'rough' fishermen had moved in just downstream of me and to the chant of loud music, was literally standing outside my tent, spear in hand spearing fish as they sort some refuge from the current, near where I'd fallen in. Give it to the guy, he was pretty deft with his spear, nailing four egg laden females in the space of twenty minutes, even asking me if he can catch one for me. Word was out that I was this South African, exotic traveler, which brought on some expectation to entertain and answer questions, in a frame of mind that was far from that space!
Slowly my system recovered, clothes dried as the sun broke through, and by 1pm I was packed up and saying emotional good-byes to the three Sergeys. There is no doubt that we had each had a special night, and felt this strange bond from the experience.
I was soon back on the corrugated dusty road, and taking it slowly, with just 25 kilometres to Ust Bolshersk, the largest town on the west side of the peninsula, the day's meager, yet today's, challenging goal.
I was surprised at the size of the town, and the variety of shops and goods available. This town was until recently a heavily restricted town, and on arriving, the battery of radar, and scanning dishes, plus significant military base, bore some witness to it's past military role.
I did my normal 'village arrival' thing, went to a magazyn bought a few supplies, found a good village viewing, vantage point, and then immersed myself in the observing process. I normally get some stares and strange looks, but I must say this time it did momentarily occur to me that I was being stared at more than usual, and one particular policeman I bumped into a few times was particularly 'interested' in me I just put it down to me town specifics, and never attributed it to me and how I was looking.
I saw this advert (very unusual!)for a new fishing lodge and accommodation. Ah, if only I could find that, a shower and bed would be a welcomed change. I rode around and around but couldn't see clues t0 where this lodge could be. I stopped to ask this middle aged mother, with her teenage son, but they looked at me as if I was from another planet, and then ignored me. Well "Stuff them too!", how unfriendly and unhelpful to a struggling, solo, visiting cyclist, I thought! Anyway a long mission with a few dead ends, but one vital helpful fisherman connection I eventually got down to the Bolshaja River, and found the lodge. Almost brand new, nicely done in all timber, double storey, quite luxurious looking, and right on the water. Reception was closed, but slowly I got to the decision maker, who came out to meet me. Middle aged well presented woman, who initially looked startled by presence, but then slowly warmed to the opportunity I presented! She showed me the room, it looked great and she could see my desperation to have it, so when it came to price she wrote down 2500 rubles. (only about $80.) Fair value, I thought, but more than my 'feel good', tent alternative, budget normally 'allows'. After the night before, I deserved it, so handed her 1500 easily accessible rubles, and started scrounging around for the rest. In her moment of compassion, she just said the 1500 was enough...So a good deal! I was the only guest, but they had a lot of 'hangers on'. Max thee husband and guy behind the whole fishing camp concept, works as a river / maritime police officer, so has his office there, and has a few staff stay over from time to time. They had an elderly couple from Kazghanistan doing the house and boat work, and I sensed Max was a respected member of the local community and was afforded some special privileges that put him in a prime place to start this fishing lodge.
First priority is a hot shower...It's been a few days now! Well, as I strip off and look at myself in the mirror, I cannot believe what Ii look like...again... ? No this is the worst ever: The dust on the road was the worst ever, and my face was just caked over with dust, smeared occasionally in a muddy, darker brown, sweat patch. My instinct was right, I'd been stared at more than usual, treated badly by that mother and her son, because I deserved it.. I really did look like I didn't belong on this planet! I was embarrassed and after a wonderful clean up I went back to my host and apologized, now proudly showing her how different I looked! Life on a bicycle on the road hey!
I was immediately invited in to their home dining room for....yeah, you guessed it: Fresh Salmon roe, fresh bread, butter and vodka! Oops, I know what the "Russian Tradition" is so do what you have to do mate, you're a guest!
None of them speak any English, and it was quite tough with lots of pregnant silences, which I invariably broke the water!
I had a short nap, they woke me around 7pm for a 'family' dinner, all very special, and oiled with vodka. I decided that one 'chut-chut' of vodka met my 'Russian Tradition' obligations tonight, and so toasted with apple juice. Each time I declined a vodka I was treated as a party pooper by the one policeman friend. Max the owner, was all ok with it. Communication improved, I showed them some photos (using my PDA) and I sense Max saw a challenge to show me his playground. We were soon out on his ski boat, hurtling up river inn very low, dusk light. We must have gone 10km, grounding the propeller in shallow spots many times, but he clearly knew this big river. It was special, pristine, and he told me lots of bears, but we didn't see any. We eventually arrive at this commercial fishing station on the river. Over the next 20 minutes I couldn't believe what I saw: Vast amounts of salmon literally having been harvested by these hardworking, net fishermen who work one per long narrow boat, 50HP outboard engine driven and they just shuttle back and forth from nets to fish collection point, arriving with 3-5 tons of salmon per boat each time. A crane efficiently lift the bulging net out of the boat transfers it to a waiting truck, returns the empty net and the solo fisherman leaves for the next harvest. There are dead salmon lying all over the place, and I sense sport fishing here is no real challenge, just a one sided, mugging game.
With the light almost totally gone, and no moon, we get in Max's speedboat for the death defying race home! Actually, I had full trust in his boat skills, and the whole trip turned out to be an amazing, quite wild adventure!
I thanked him warmly for the experience and with it now 10 30pm, and me due for a 6am departure, said goodbye and headed for a lovely cozy bed!
Gee, anther amazing day!