Vitry la Francoise, Chalone sur Champagne, Conde Sur Marne, Mareuil-sur-Ay, Domans, Chateau Thierry
Seascapes Travel Log
Michael Grew
Sun 26 Jun 2011 09:16
Vitry la Francoise 18.06.2011 48:43:62N 04:35:66E
Awoke early to a dull grey cloudy morning. During the morning there was a general turning over of boats in the marina. We walked up to the covered food market to see what was on offer, but we were quite disappointed there were very few food stalls but several stalls selling ladies clothing. We were told the morning market was for food and the afternoon market was for clothing. (Ah well, that’s the French for you!) supplies. So we bought our supplies in the supermarket instead. As we came out of the shop to walk back to the boat, it started to rain and there was the sound of thunder in the air. We got back on board just in time to miss a torrential downpour. The was also some strong winds with the rain as well that brought over first heavy clouds then the sky would clear and the sun would come out and everything would steam. Ten minutes later the next lot of clouds came over and soaked everything again. This went on all day but we managed to get our chores done in between the showers so it wasn’t really a problem. We even managed to make one run, with the bikes, up to the local garage, with the cans to get more diesel. We were hoping to get a second run in but a thunderstorm put paid to that idea. Still I managed to get some uninterrupted reading in and Maureen got more knitting done. Spent the evening playing cards. I forgot to mention that yesterday after going to McDonalds to send off the diary entries, we went back and watched the end of the cycle race. Very exciting there were about 50 riders in the race and when we first saw them they were strung out in two groups, with a large gap between the two. When the last few laps were being run they had all caught up in one big group and at the finish line we could not see who had won, they were so close together. They had been racing for two hours and had covered 80 kilometres (50 miles). We were very surprised there were a lot of the riders that were not youngsters any more.
Vitry la Francoise 19.06.2011 48:43:62N 04:35:66E
The weather this morning was a little brighter still raining and the wind quite strong, but all looked promising so after breakfast we did another couple of bike runs to the local garage so that we now have enough fuel to tide us over the next few days when we will be lucky to find garages close enough to the canal. Maureen spotted a poster advertising a “Boaters Festival” (but it was in French of course). She translated the various attractions promised, one of which she said was Neptune was making an appearance. I said I thought that was strange as he is only associated with the sea. We went down the towpath to see what was going on. We were surprised that the Bargees Association have a barge church and a service was in full swing. We went into their clubhouse and browsed through some of their antique photographs of barges on the French canals in the last century. Very interesting to see barges being pulled along, not by horses, but men in a harness. We found out later that it wasn’t Neptune that was making an appearance, but the church service on the barge! ( I think I will sack her as a translator!) Most the afternoons entertainment consisted of a guy playing an accordion (very good) and an hour and a half display by a troop of majorettes (not quite so good) They were called “The Chipettes” I could see why, I think it must the favourite food for a lot of them. Although to be fair some of the back row were the complete opposite, like bean poles. (perhaps they hadn’t been members for very long!). Talking of chips I have persuaded Maureen that we could go up to McDonalds again tonight and use their WiFi facility and while we are there, have our evening meal (save her slaving over a hot oven! See I do think about her welfare!). Tomorrow we move off early. We have 30 odd kilometres to travel and 6 locks to negotiate before our next night stop and there is no facilities there at all, just a place to moor.
Chalonne sur Champagne 20.06.2011 48:57:25N 04:21:41E
08:45hrs left Vitry- le- Francoise in a fine drizzle and even light grey clouds. (typical English rain, the sort you think you don’t really need a waterproof but then find after 20 minutes you are soaked through) So with the canopy up and trying to steer blindly through a rain spotted windscreen we pottered up the canal (No we don’t have windscreen wipers, unless you count Maureen clambering outside with a squeegee and a piece of kitchen roll) As time went on the rain got heavier and heavier until we finally went and got our full offshore sailing waterproofs on and motored along with the canopy down. By 10:15hrs in a torrential downpour (like standing under a waterfall!) with the rain dripping off the end our noses we decided enough was enough (we were supposed to be doing this for pleasure!!!) and stopped at a small picnic spot called Soulanges. A very nice quiet little spot, so we decided that would do as our night stop. Murphy’s Law then cropped up and no sooner had we got our wet clobber off than it stopped raining and brightened up. Then a large motor cruiser came along and indicated he was going to moor up on our nice secluded picnic spot as well. That did it, we slipped the mooring and continued on our northward journey. Three big boats passed us, all going south ( a bit of record that, up to now we had had the canal all to ourselves) At 16:00hrs having covered 32 kilometres and passed through 8 locks we arrived in Chalone sur Champagne brand new marina all the pontoons and electric and water hook ups were in place but nothing connected up. The female Capitainerie was promising the electric would be connected soon (which could mean anything). The rain had stopped so we went for a walk round, which was quite a busy, bustling town. We stopped half way round the tourist trail when it started to look like rain again (and Maureen got us lost, she was map reading!). We walked back to the boat had dinner and then spent the evening reading and playing cards.
Conde sur Marne 21.06.2011 49:02:52N 04:10:88E
At 08:30hrs while I was in the midst of getting dressed, there was a knock on the side of the boat. Maureen went out and found it was the Englishman from the cruiser moored near us. He had been up to the Boulangerie (bakers) and found they were doing a 50% discount on orders of four loaves of bread, so he bought four and offered us a loaf at half price. What a nice chap. I said as he was in the mood would he like to go up to the supermarket and do our weeks shopping for us. He said “Yes provided you don’t mind the delivery charge” I smelt a rat and declined his offer. After breakfast we went and continued our town walk and as we got to a new shopping arcade (sorry the new word for it is “Mall” I believe) it started to rain again, so we went inside. I was amazed to find there was something like twenty or so women’s dress shops, all selling virtually the same things. I don’t know how they would all make enough profit to cover the shop rent. When we left the mall (I hate that word!) the rain had eased off, so we walked back to the boat, said our farewells and slipped the mooring at 11:00hrs and continued up the canal, arriving at Conde sur Marne marina at 13:15hrs. We were greeted by an Englishman called Dave Goodburn who took our lines for us and helped us tie up. He and his wife, Marian were semi- residents in the marina on their converted sailing ketch (a boat with two masts). They had been living in the marina nine months of the year, only returning home in the winter. A lovely couple, we got on like a house on fire, They had their daughter, American Son in law and their two you girls staying on the boat with them, That evening they invited us to their barbeque and afterwards to some games, to celebrate Summers Day, they were all wearing hats made from wild flowers. After the children had gone to bed we sat around the fire and put the world to rights. Dave started working on sailing barges when he was 15 years of age on the east coast. He was also a retired coxswain of the Southend lifeboat having served with RNLI for 28 years. He had some interesting tales to tell. He and Marian had decided after 16 years on the French canals, they had had enough and were selling their boat. Tomorrow the whole family are going on holiday together, to Switzerland, by train, so we will not be seeing them again (shame).
Mareuil-sur-Ay 22.06.2011 49:02:69N 04:02:07E
Awoke early to sound of the rain drumming on the cabin top. (What the heck happened to all the warm sunshine we had last year, then we were sweltering in 30+ degrees of heat) Since we did not have far to go to our next stopping point we decided to just sit it out and wait for the rain to stop. We were very surprised that all of a sudden there were lots of commercial barges going past. A sure sign that we are approaching the barge highway of the River Seine. After lunch the weather looked a little brighter and the rain had stopped, so we started preparing to leave at 14:00hrs. Then along came a huge commercial barge approaching the lock. He was travelling very slowly towards the lock release gantry, as he came to a halt for his crew to operate it, the wind gusted and took his bow over into the shallows and that was that, he was well and truly aground. It just highlighted the fact, as to how low the water levels are this year. None of the barges are being loaded to their maximum capacity, but they are still getting into trouble. We will have to be very careful and not eat too much, otherwise we to could be in trouble. We left the barge to its own devices, slipped the mooring and headed in the other direction, towards Paris (the barge was heading towards Rheims). At 16:00hrs we arrived at Mareuil-sur-Ay, which is in the heart of the champagne growing area. We had a walk around the town (in the sunshine!) The small town reflects the wealth of the area, with very smart, well maintained houses and gardens. One thing was very amusing, as we walked past a small electricity box mounted on the pavement close to a garden bordered by a thick hedge, we heard voices emanating from the box, very strange. Maureen said it wasn’t coming from the box but from a drain cover in front of the box. All very intriguing until we walked a bit along the hedge and saw that a gardener was working the other side of the hedge and had his radio on. We did feel silly! Here in France the farms and farmyards are right in the middle of the town which seems strange. English farms are always in rural settings. (Vive le difference) All the hills and fields as far as you can see, are covered in vines and in the town there are 4 or 5 different champagne companies based in close proximity to each other. We went mad and bought a bottle of champagne from the small supermarket. We would have gone round to the producers for a tasting but they were all shut. We were told if you want to have a visit you have to ring up and book an appointment. (They are obviously only interested in wholesale sales) Shame, particularly since one of the producers here is Bollingers! Back on the boat we sat in the sunshine, in the cockpit and drank the champagne. Lovely but did feel very tired (Maureen says, sloshed, might be a better description) afterwards and both went to sleep and in consequence we did not have dinner until late. Ah well it was worth it. Spent what was left of the evening writing up this diary entry.
Mareuil-sur-Ay 22.06.2011 49:02:69N 04:02:07E
Awoke to drumming of rain on the cabin top again (it’s getting rather boring now) Maureen definitely not pleased she had decided that today was washing day. However the rain eased off after breakfast so the first lot of washing was done. The weather was still being problem to her but it certainly kept her active and others entertained as they watched her clamber about the boat hanging out the washing only to rush around collecting it all in again 10 minutes later as the next rain cloud dropped it’s load. 10 minutes later out would come the sun (and Maureen) and the washing re- hung. Every few minutes the cycle would repeat itself. Maureen was not amused, particularly when, after the fifth or six cycle she dropped a towel in the canal and watched it sink straight to the bottom in about 10 feet of filthy water. I did try at length, unsuccessfully, to retrieve it using a very long boat hook, which I borrowed off the boat next door. We did walk up the town in between the showers to the very posh patisserie (cake shop) and lashed out on two (expensive) cakes. We were both amused when the proprietor came out to serve us, she ( or was it a he?) was about 6ft tall, thin as a beanpole, long dyed red hair, dressed to kill, wearing designer specs on the top of her/his head and spoke with a deep husky voice. I had extreme difficulty in not laughing. The cakes were lovely though. In the afternoon I did some routine engine checks, topped up the fuel tanks from the cans and filled up the fresh water tanks, ready for our move tomorrow. The weather did improve dramatically towards the end of the afternoon and we sat in the cockpit sunning ourselves, but by late evening the rain returned. Let’s hope improves by tomorrow.
Dormans 24.06.2011 49:04:61N 03:38:28E
Hooray we awoke to bright sunshine and blue skies. Left the mooring at 08:30hrs and very carefully manoeuvred the boat away from the pontoon so that we did not pick up the towel that Maureen chucked in the water, with our propeller. We pottered up the canal in a biting cold head wind. Shortly we then left the Canal Lateral de-la-Marne having been on it for 66 kilometres and passing through 14 very gentle locks and entered the River La Marne. I notice then in spite of the strong head wind our speed had increased as the current was pushing us along nicely. (that should help the fuel economy!) We then started going through completely different types of locks, they are much wider, with sloping sides and have a floating pontoon that you tie up to. I remember my Brother-in-law saying how much he hated them. I thought they were okay at first, but then on the third one, Maureen spoke to me at the wrong moment, broke my concentration and I collided with the pontoon, bursting a fender and splitting the barge board. The air was a bit blue for a while. I now agree with my Brother-in-laws assessment. At 10:00hrs we stopped at Cumieres to look at the metal sculptures lining the river bank that depict how the wine (Champagne) is made. We left there at 11:00hrs made another brief stop at Damary to walk the advertised 500 metre (?) to the garage to pick up more diesel. We then continued on our way, intending to stop at a couple of villages which sounded interesting in the guide book however both of them had very small quays and both were full up, so we continued on to the town of Dormans, arriving at 15:00hrs. That quay was also full but we were allowed to tie up alongside a large abandoned cruiser. Maureen found a leaflet in the Capitaineries office advertising the local chateau and a first world war memorial. So we walked across the road bridge to find it. We were very glad we had taken the trouble to it. The Chateau was set in a beautiful park and had the tourist information office inside. It was very refreshing to find a very helpful, enthusiastic and knowledgeable girl manning the counter. Most of the ones we found up to now haven’t got a clue what is in their town. We then walked up the hill behind the chateau to the war memorial. Wow! It was a huge white stone church with beautiful stain glass windows and the walls had the names of the thousands of soldiers carved and picked out in red paint, that had died in WW1. In the crypt is buried 15,000 French and allied soldiers. The entrance to the crypt has a bed of flowers and at the bottom of the stairs there is a soldier’s helmet resting on the French flag and on the floor in front of it a lamp is burning. Very very moving. In one of the side chapels was a small museum about the battles that had taken place around the Marne valley region. Outside in the covered cloisters, on the walls were details of some of these battles. We climbed the 150 steps of the spiral staircase to get to the top of the tower and what a fantastic view there was from the top. Needless to say a lot of photographs were taken that afternoon. This has got to be the highlight of this trip so far. On the way back down the hill we stopped off and visited the old mill museum. They have there the biggest water wheel I have ever seen, it is huge. It must be nearly 40feet in diameter. Inside the museum they have lots of old tools that were used in the champagne trade, fascinating. On the way back down through the town we stopped off at the supermarket for supplies before going back to the boat for our evening meal. I think it is going to be a bit of a noisy night there is the train track on the opposite bank that seems to have a lot heavy freight trains running on it. The weather today has been lovely let’s hope tomorrow is the same.
Chateau Thierry 25.06.2011 49:02:58N 03:24:44E
Well the trains did not keep us awake after all they weren’t running after midnight. The day started with the usual even, light grey cloud and a chilly northerly wind. So much so, I had to abandon my shorts and sandals for long trousers and trainers. We must be getting nearer to England. We slipped the mooring at 09:30hrs and headed sort of North West’ish. (the river winds considerably here). On route I used the split off half of the barge board to create a new board for the port side and shifted the damaged fender to the rear where it’s a bit more protected. We arrived at Chateau Thierry at 12:30hrs to find the edge of the quay was full of fairground stalls, rides and caravans. That was the only location that had electric and water points. We retraced our steps back to a high commercial quay on the other side of the river and about 500 metres further back up river. Thank goodness we kept the 8ft ladder on the boat, it made it relatively easy to get ashore. After lunch we scaled the ladder and walked into town and found this weekend was a carnival weekend (hence the fair). We went for a walk into town and as we usually do we made for the tourist office and were surprised to find a lot of the staff were trying on medieval costumes. This weekend is the celebration of their local poet called Jean de la Fountaine. We followed the group to his house where they had a photoshoot. We then walked up to the castle which is very high and very impressive it must have been quite daunting for any would be attackers. There was a stockade at the top where they was a falconry display going on. We walked back into town and had a beer in one of the cafes around the main square and watched the start of the proceedings from our table. Four different bands were presented and the keys to the town were presented to the person playing Jean de la Fountaine by the mayor. We walked back to the boat for dinner and at 20:00hrs we went back into the square for the evenings entertainment. We paid 5 euros each for grandstand seats. The entertainment started at 20:30hrs and finished at 00:30hrs. It consisted of five totally different types of bands, a circus act, a clown on stilts, American line dancing, a twirling club ( a cross between majorettes and gymnastics) The lead girl is the national champion. There was a lucky seat draw (which we didn’t win anything on!) and two lit up floats. All in all a fantastic evening, the French do quirky extremely well. The best of it all was that the weather stayed warm and dry, I was still only wearing a tee shirt at midnight.