20 21S 163 10W

Libertyatsea10
Fri 27 Aug 2010 22:45
all well here on way to Nuie, the smallest independent state in the world I am told. We must be in the only stretch of 600 miles of ocean without a breadth of wind in the world too.
8 knots of wind is a lot of breeze, so we are spending too much time on the motor.
we had a leaking fuel pipe to the generator but that's sorted out , we do not need it because the engine is on so much.

we have been doing little bits and pieces so we don't have a job list in Nuie, so we have re re roved the furling line for the genoa, filled some chips on GRP , washed out the rope bags and replaced them. We don't have any more spare blocks so we have doctored one or two with extra strength glue and fingers crossed it seems to be working. WE have tightened all the hatches and replaced the hinges on the fridge. (Just in case you think we are on holiday)

My turn to have a twist in my back and the TENS machine is not working which is a real pity because that usually sorts it out in a day, so I am on rest and anti.inflamatories, hence no diary of late.

We had a ball in Rarotonga, We met some great folks including a big yacht called Infinity, full of sea gipsies who used to be been stock brokers and stuff. We had dinner with them (18 of them) and the Captain dived and changed our upside down anode, which was worrying me (it had been fitted with the bolts the wrong way round in Spain and we did not notice until we had to change them). We also had a night at a party on board which Benj really enjoyed as the youngest particpiant. The boat seems to have a ballroom in the middle which was very impressive. We also met a guy who lives out here called Tiger, who looks just like George Micheal, on his Outremmer 55 called Natural Mystic, which as catamarans go , this is the one I like. Fast and functional and well built. We were all moored stern to, dropping the anchor on the way in, on the town quay, all very "med" for a change.
In the afternoons everyone hangs out on deck to watch the nursing humpback whales play just outside the harbour. Magical. The mothers are SO big, what a beautiful sight, and the babies so frisky, just perfect, No idea why but they seem to come to the same spot so you can be just walking to the village watching these whales...it is so very special...

People are So friendly in Raro and the island is beautiful, clean and so relaxed. It is expensive but everything is shipped in. The food is good , specially the Iki Mata, which is raw fish marinaded in coconut. Magic. BEnj had lots of french fries which he don't have on board so he is happy.

We learnt how to make fire and had a wonderful evening with PIRI the local Fire King . A genuinely lovely man who does a tourist show, but there was no show on, so he took us on an evening himself and showed us how to build the underground ovens that are traditional, how to start a fire from the coconut bark , we lit a huge fire on the beach as the sun went down, and he told us about the traditional ways of living in the Cooks that he learnt form his Grandfather. It was a special insight into Cook Island living and we were so touched that he gave us his time so generously. ( the resort shows were rip offs at 150 dollars but I still would have succumbed as I was keen to see some of the famous dancing and drumming)

Johan wanted to do this amazing hike across the island which involves traversing the peak of a mountain on chains, but as it rained at night it was not considered safe until the trail dried out. We could nt stay longer to wait for dry nights, but with all the time in the world Raro would be a return visit...

Thoroughly chilled we lifted anchor and set off on a hot hot day for Nuie but if we get wind we will follow it to whereever...
XXX