Fai Tira blog Friday 3rd September

On Hinchinbrook Island 18:28.17S 146:06.13E

We left Magnetic Island at 07.00 on the 31^st August, I must admit it I was attracted to the place and I think it had quite a pull for such a small island.  As we set off, the weather wasn’t brilliant:  heavy squally showers interspersed with sunny intervals.  We donned our wet gear as the sun and rain took turns to bathe us.  We past Great Palm Island which is home to an aboriginal tribe, the island kept appearing and disappearing behind sheets of rain .  We had been warned not to go there because of the high crime rate, but also the weather wasn’t suitable to land so we carried onto our planned destination of Orpheus Island, a few miles further to the North.  When we arrived the rain was still “persisting” it down.  We sat in the saloon whilst John prepared dinner, Jeremy read his book, and I watched a DVD.  The wind blew all night but the anchorage was nice and smooth, being on the lee side of the islands and the prevailing trade winds.

The next morning we took it quite leisurely, as we only had 11 miles to go to the entrance to the Hinchinbrook Passage.  The tide heights dictated that we couldn’t arrive before midday and we were to enter on a rising tide, the lowest we got to the bottom was 2 meters.  We followed the leading lights, one of which was attached to a 3 mile long wharf carrying a conveyer belt out to a ship dock, enabling the local sugar cane to be easily loaded for export.  This in turn emanates from the town known as Lucinda, which is a one-kangaroo town with just a massive sugar terminal, a bar and a campsite.  We visited the campsite which doubled as the tourist information office, and were told by the lady in there that people only go to the town for the fishing. She also informed us she was born in South Brent in Devon!  We headed for the bar and got talking to the only local in there.  He was a fisherman and told us how he fished for Spanish mackerel with long lines.  We headed back to the boat and motored the 8 miles up the passage to Haycock Island our overnight stop. 

Hinchinbrook Island is a spectacular and unspoiled wilderness, with granite mountains rising dramatically from the sea.  It is separated from the mainland by the Hinchinbrook Passage which is fringed with mangrove forests.  The views from the anchorage were fantastic, and as the wind dropped and weather cleared we were treated to the sun going down over the mountains.  We opened a bottle of wine and took in the ambiance.

The next morning we were treated to dead still conditions with the mountains being reflected in the water, the only ripples being caused by the odd fish jumping and the local salt water crocodile chasing some unsuspecting wading bird.  We set off in awe, well in Fai Tira actually (joke), heading for an anchorage 12 miles up the passage. The wind was light so we slowly motored between the mangroves, admiring the scenery.  We arrived in perfect weather and were surprised to see a beach and some aboriginal fish traps from primeval times, we dropped anchor just off these in 3 metres of water.  After smothering ourselves in mosquito repellent we set of in the dinghy to the beach, to be confronted with a sign stating that it was dangerous near the water’s edge because of croc attack.  How were we to leave our dinghy?  Bloody fast that’s for sure.  We headed into the rain forest, aware of all the things that can kill you in Australia, one species being the Common Death Adder.   Being intrepid explorers with responsibility for getting Fai Tira back to England we let Jeremy lead the way.  The only animals we saw were one large-ish lizard and lots of biting flies, which had huge needle probosces and wouldn’t leave you alone until you had killed them.  We returned to the beach after a short circular walk and sat on the sand trying to spot crocs. None seen, we dived onto the dinghy and motored back to Fai Tira.  The sun was getting low in the sky so we relaxed, with me trying – unsuccessfully - to catch fish for dinner and John and Jeremy reading their books.  Another early night was called for, as we were off to Dunk Island the following morning at first light.

Photos to come later when we have WiFi

Pete, John and Jeremy.